South America has been an off roader’s paradise ever since the first 4x4s crossed what would become the Panamerican. Bolivia in particular, has one of the most impressive and deadly road on the face of the planet: the Carretera de la Muerte or Death Road.
Two childhood friends and fellow surfers, Reinaldo and Douglas, decided to navigate the treacherous 75 kilometer stretch of mountain road in a Defender 110 SW, mixing the pleasure of adventure with the brilliant intention of sharing children’s toys and balloons. Since this wasn’t their first expedition, the Defender was already prepared. Previously, Reinaldo had set about to ride a Chilean wave, leading the Atacama Desert Surfing Expedition.
The duo, aided by French filmmaker Laurent C. Refalo, set off from Sao Paolo towards the Bolivian border. The 1400 km trip took them through the Panatal wetland system, through thick rainforest and scenic landscapes. Once in Bolivia, another long journey awaited them, along the well-known trafficking route, where any occasion for a little bribe was encouraged. Passing a little fright with Douglas getting kidney stones, they eventually reached La Paz and the chaotic drivers who inhabit the city.
It took two days for the acclimatization process to be finished. Up to this point, the altitude reached was 12.000 feet. Trucks and people work slower with less and less oxygen. The people of the area told them stories of the Kari-Kari, the evil spirit that lives on the death road, steals the victim’s soul through their stomach and drives them over the cliffs. The only method to ward it off is to stuff your pockets with garlic cloves.
Anxious and excited, the expedition left La Paz and started up the Carretera Yungas. On the first section, known as Topo, the winding dangerous road ascends to 13.100 feet. Altitude sickness kicks in again, causing dizziness, shortness of breath and nausea. The locals chew coca leaves, dilating their lungs and providing the extra energy to battle the symptoms.
The road narrowed, and it became obvious why so many die on the 50-mile stretch of road. The countless crosses on the side of the road are a statement to the reason behind the local fear. They understood the risks and felt them at each turn, but never did they feel more real than their first encounter, when the rules say that La Paz drivers need to keep towards the edge.
People talk about the most dangerous area of the world: the infamous San Juan stretch. Here, a narrow section constantly flooded by a small waterfall keeps the soil damp and the adherence low. Trucks, buses and cars have slipped off the edge, into 1600 ft of nothingness. Legends say that anyone travelling after 6 pm can hear voices asking for help from the mountains. Happily, the Defender locked the differentials and crossed without problems.
It is bad omen for anyone to be on the road late, and the team reached Corico just in time for sunset. All their efforts and worries on the way up were doubled by the fact that the return journey would cover the same route. The upside of it was that on the way back, they would get to ride on the “safe” side, near the wall.
From there on, the team went stand-up paddling on the Titicaca lake, the highest navigable waters on the planet. Staying with the Aymara people, they learned about the history, the legends surrounding it and the Aymara’s role as protectors of the waters.
Through this journey, the three adventurers were once again reminded of the happiness of simple things and the gift of giving, as the Aymara kids were also grateful receivers of the Defender’s balloons and toys.
Image copyrights: Reinaldo Junqueira / Douglas Moreira / Laurent C. Refalo
